Thursday, December 11, 2008




Today was, in part, devoted to a visit to the downtown market and historical district. We caught the Centro Mercado city bus near the Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan. The cost is 8 pesos one-way. The buses are clean and air conditioned. The route takes you past the Zona Dorada on Av. Camaron-Sabalo, then along Av. Del Mar and the long beachwalk, to Fisherman’s Beach, where you turn left toward the Centro District. I think the entire distance is about four miles, or so. Angel and I have walked this both ways, but it gets a bit long on a hot day. I suggest you take the bus or pulmonia, and save your energy for walking around the shops and historical buildings.

We disembark the bus near the downtown Panama Pasteria. This is near the cathedral (catedral), teatro (theater), market (mercado), and plaza. You will be easily disoriented, but not likely “severely lost”, when enjoying your walkabout in this area. We first wander through the market where we snap photos of the various shops and food vendors. The market is a colorful, and definitely, a sensory experience. Locals generally pack the place, but this day is very crowded, as three cruise ships are in dock. We weave our way past locals, other gringos, Asian tourists with fancy cameras, heads and hooves, organ meats, fresh and smoked fish, local fruits and veggies, t-shirts, and leather goods. We eventually are “shot” out of the other side of the market, and I lead my amigos past the cathedral toward the Plaza. We “make” the Plaza in a few minutes. The Plaza is quiet and relaxing during the day, a welcome refuge from the chaotic market area. Surrounding the Plaza are many historic buildings and the Peralta Theater. Google Peralta for more info. We circle the Plaza once, then settle in at a table at Mechado Restaurant, where we order a round of Pacifico’s, tortilla soup, and camarone tacos. The cerveza is cold; the soup rich, flavorful and spicy; and the tempura shrimp filled tacos, perfect. The entire bill was 350 pesos, including tip. After a leisurely meal, we wander more, taking in the area and popping photos of the buildings that have been restored, and those still sorely needing restoration. It’s an interesting mix.

Bob is suddenly eager to head for home, so he can work on another small pottery project. Phil and I are okay with that, so we walk back to the market and with a little effort, figure out which bus we need to catch back to PB Mazatlan. This is a little tricky. Return buses to Zona Dorada depart from the opposite end of the market from where you arrive. This is more confusing then you would think, as landmarks are unremarkable. You will want to board the green and white bus labeled Sabalo Centro to prevent any difficulties. Just ask the driver “Zona Dorada or Pueblo Bonito?”, before boarding.

We enjoy the return trip to PB on city bus. Phil decides to set off on his lonesome to explore the area in the vicinity of the PB on foot for an hour or so. Bob and I catch the Emerald Bay shuttle. Arriving at EB, we quickly change into our beachwear and find chairs poolside. Bob selects and paints a small ceramic elephant. I chat with Drew, Donna, Brittany, and the kids, who have been sunning and swimming all day. Drew gives us a hard time about riding the city bus, which is considered to be the lowest level of tourista transport (unless you opt for a burro). I tell him that the economy may eventually force all of “us” into riding the autobus, and reassure him that I will then be available to offer him “lessons”. He laughs, but as Bob would say, “hears the nickel drop”. Who knows what tomorrow will bring?

We finish up the afternoon at the pool. Happy hour results in our “ritual” double margaritas. Bob returns to the room to “gussie up” for the Fiesta. Phil and enjoy the sunset with a couple from Colorado, Lorne and Kena, and their daughter (not sure of her name). Bob returns. Phil and I are the last “survivors” at the pool. I’m still sipping my drink, having learned a few years ago, that pacing yourself when drinking poolside, is important. We tell Bob to enjoy his evening with his “friends” at the Fiesta. Phil and I decide to catch the 7:00 shuttle to town. I’m thinking that Los Zarapes, a restaurant close to PB Mazatlan, is a good choice for dinner.

We arrive at PB, where we take the short walk down the road to Los Zarapes, which lies across the street. We cross the avenue and climb stairs to the second floor restaurant, where we are greeted by the always friendly hostess. Once seated, we order. Phil has chicken fajitas and I order the grilled fish (pescado) with garlic sauce. The food is good, not spectacular. The bill is once again between 350-400 pesos, with tip. Los Zarapes is probably a better “family” restaurant, than it is a “couples” place. The staff does a good job of entertaining children, having “magicians” and “musical entertainment” always available. Not much privacy. Once little extra is the fresh salsa that is made tableside by your server. On this night, our server spoke zero English. Neither, Phil or I could communicate with the kid. This was a little strange as Philipe is fluent in espanol, and I limp along quite successfully in my attempts to use long forgotten phraseology. For some reason, this didn’t work well for us last night. Despite our difficulty, we ended up with a tasty salsa, caliente media.

When we arrived back at Emerald Bay, Bob was in the room. He and his lady friends had enjoyed the Fiesta, but after a few hours, were ready to leave. The Fiesta runs about $45 dollars U.S., and I’m guessing can be compared to similar “events” in other locales. Bob reported that the food was plentiful, and of good quality. The drinks were “free”, and the desserts available in great variety. He rated the “show” as average. I’m guessing he’d give the whole thing a B grade and call it “worthwhile once”. For those of you who stay at EB or any other Mexican resort, you may as well count on going elsewhere for dinner on Fiesta night, as restaurant service in these resorts, will be “poor”, if even available.

Well, that was our day. I drifted off, listening to Phil and Bob, loudly discussing who they thought the no name actors were, in a Spanish language movie. What a couple of characters!

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