I caught the 10:00 shuttle this morning. Ten minutes later I was at Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan. I quickly flagged the Sabalo Centro bus for downtown. If I haven’t mentioned this before, I like going to the downtown market in the morning. The sights, sounds, and smells at the market are more concentrated. Later, in the heat, and chaos of the day, everything becomes blended, dulled, and undefined. Before 11:00 or 12:00, vendors are still in the process of stocking their tables with fresh fruits, vegetables, nuts, candies, and assorted package goods. Freshly butchered beef, pork, fish, and poultry line the center length of the market. Whole meat parts are in refrigerated cases or put on ice, as are a variety of ground meats, sausages, head cheese, and dairy goods. Under the same roof, vendors also sell t-shirts, baseball caps, sombreros, dresses, jeans, undergarments, cd’s, electronic gadgets, and leather goods. Fruit, candy, nuts, soft drinks, and prepared food items are available from carts lining the streets outside of the market. Additional vendors also sell freshly caught shrimp and fish a short distance away on another street. If you are considering buying fresh perishables, bring a small cooler with ice.
I arrive at the market by 10:45. I walk through once, taking it all in, but purchase nothing. When solo, seldom am I bothered by vendors “pitching” their goods. This was true today. I took my time walking, looking, and occasionally asking a question as to what something was, or how much it cost. I encountered no pressure to buy, but did get a few strained looks as I tried using my Spanglish!
After perusing goods at the market, I decide to get some exercise by walking around the area. First, I went to the historical district and plaza. I wanted to find Te Amo Lucy’s (I Love Lucy’s), a little restaurant we have eaten at in prior years. For some reason I couldn’t find it when walking last week with Phil and Bob. Phil managed find the eatery the day I went bird hunting, and explained to me where it was located. He ate lunch at the establishment and spoke with the co-owner, an American, who is married to a Mexican citizen. Apparently, the owner has a sister who lives in Alaska near us. I didn’t know that. Our world is shrinking. Today, I find the restaurant and snap a couple pics. The owner is “busy” engaged in conversation with another expatriot, so I keep moving. Angel and I will eat at Te Amo Lucy’s next week, and we will say “hello” then.
After taking a few more photos of buildings and signage in the historical district, I decide to walk the five or six blocks to Fisherman’s beach. I wander around a bit, but manage to get to the playa with no trouble. I stay on the shady side of Paseo Olas Alta, and decide to follow the street past the “Cliff Divers”, Canucks Restaurant, The Shrimp Bucket, and Hotel Belmar. This is my circuitous route to the Freeman Hotel, where I hope to catch the elevator to the 9th floor, and then walk up a couple more flights of stairs to the 11th floor “Skyroom”. I’m desiring a cold beer, and I love the 360 degree aerial view of the city and ocean from the top of the Freeman.
The walk is a warm one. When I reach the Freeman, I am thirsty. I hop on the elevator, push 9, and up I go. About 30 seconds … and those two flights of stairs I mentioned previously … later, I’m ordering a Modelo Negra from the bartender. I’m the only customer in the Skyroom. The windows are open and there is a cool breeze lightly moving through the large bar. The Skyroom has windows on all sides offering one of the “best” views in the city. Sunsets are fabulous at the Freeman. The bartender, Daniel, tells me that the Freeman is popular with both Canadians and Americans. He says that only about 15% of the guests are Mexican. Daniel likes the Americans the best because they are generally a cheerful group, and tip well. I tell Daniel that I am impressed with his English. He tells me that he has taken English language lessons from American instructors in the past, and that he is at an intermediate level. He wants to perfect his language skills, so he can be more marketable for a better paying job. He can no longer afford more lessons, so he does his best to pick up new words and phrases by talking with English speakers. I teach him the word “earn” as in “earning money”. I tell him that we sometimes say “make” for “earn”. That confuses him slightly, but I explain the duel nature of that word, and we get through it. He tells me that he often confuses “win” with “making or earning”. I explain what “win” means. This goes on for quite a while … two beers worth. While we are talking, I’m thinking that Daniel speaks pretty decent English right now, and his comprehension is very good. He should be able to get work at one of the larger hotels or resorts, where he would have the opportunity for better “earnings”. I encourage him to apply to the larger places like Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan, or Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay. He thinks they are “full”, meaning not accepting new applications. I think that it is likely you need to “know somebody” or have a recommendation. I make a mental note to implement a “random act of kindness”. I’ll write a note today to one of the upper level managers at Emerald Bay, sharing my impressions of this young man and his command of English. Maybe something good will come of it.
I say “Hasta Luego” to Daniel, walk down 11 flights of stairs to test out my drinking… err …walking legs. In a few minutes I’m once again in the heat of the day. Turning right out of the Freeman, I walk past the Shrimp Bucket Restaurant and take another right which leads me back to the historical center and market. This is much shorter and cooler than my previous route to the Freeman. Winding through narrow streets, I pop photos of buildings and street “stuff”. I reach the market and flag a Sabalo Centro bus. As we begin moving, I realize that I’ve hopped on the bus at the wrong side of the market, so I will eventually arrive at the end point of the run, then need to transfer to another bus to get back to Pueblo Bonito. No worries. I have pesos and time. The bus trip ends at one of the Stone Island water ferries; the one next to mooring for the cruise ships. We had taken the ferry from another spot on Tuesday. I get off the bus and hop on another waiting Sabalo Centro bus that is parked nearby. We move out slowly, picking up passengers near the cruise ship area, then back to the downtown market, and finally on, to my now “familiar” route, along the Malecon. I’m tired, but it’s been an enjoyable day. I finish by departing the bus at Mary's. I order the chicken tender salad and a bottle of H2O. After eating, I burn off the beer and food by walking to the Pueblo Bonito Mazatlan. There I catch the shuttle home.
I love wandering about Mazatlan on foot, or on the city bus. Some of my most memorable times are when I am “naked” among “the people and their culture” … no guides … no tours … no planned schedules … just a phrasebook and a camera. Try it. You might like it.
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