We continue down the beach. Range is cruising in fourth gear at about 25mph. Marco, Drew, and London are in the lead. Donna, Range, and I trail the leaders by a few hundred yards. Marco occasionally drops back to check on everyone. At one point we all gather. I hop off and take a few shots of the machines and riders lined up on the beach. Marco decides to “show off” by spinning a few cookies with his machine. I put Range’s machine in 2nd gear, direct him to soft sand, crank his handlebars hard left, and tell him to “goose it”. He turns a perfect 360, tossing up sand, but maintaining good control. Range and Marco are soon joined by Drew and London. With a little “encouragement” from the group, Donna joins in. She has the “old style” toe shift machine, but has mastered gear changing easily, and “paints” a perfect circle in the sand on the first try.
The beach is wide open now, no other people, four wheelers, or horses, in sight. We continue on for a few more miles until a series of buildings appear on our left. Marco is in the lead. He stops and parks his ATV high on the beach, and then walks up to a group of small buildings. He appears to be speaking to a couple of fellows in green hats and khaki uniforms. Marco strolls back to the machines and tells us that he was asking the men if we could tour the area on our return leg. It turns out that the buildings are used as a sea turtle hatchery, and they have granted us permission to visit.
We start up the machines and move out. The group passes some new construction in progress, and then slowing, we approach a few people sunning on the beach. To our left is a large, and beautiful, resort. Marco and Drew tell me that this is Estrella Del Mar. Drew played a round of golf here last year with his father-in-law and brother-in-law. They had a great time. It appears to be a beautiful course. Drew asks Marco if we might be allowed to eat lunch at the clubhouse. Marco thinks “yes”, so we drive further down the beach until we reach the clubhouse, park the four wheelers, and walk up to the building. We are allowed in, greeted warmly, and seated.
We order a variety of foods including tortilla soup, BLT’s, nachos, and hot dogs. Marco, Drew, and I have “red beer”. Donna has a glass of chard, and the kids have Shirley Temples. The food arrives. My BLT is okay, nothing special, but the tomato and lettuce are fresh, bacon crisp, and the toast is not burned. The other food appears to be similar in character. It all looks good, but seems to lack that “little extra” you would expect in this place, for presentation.
The setting at Estrella Del Mar is absolutely beautiful. This resort is adjoined on both sides by several miles of unobstructed, and seemingly pristine, sandy beach. Both Drew and I wonder out loud why there is so little development in this area. I didn’t ask Marco if he knew the answer to that one, so I’ve made a mental note to do so the next opportunity I have to see him. The buildings at the resort appear to be well-maintained. I was somewhat surprised at the relatively few people staying there, but I’m guessing it may be too remote for all but those seeking complete solitude.
After enjoying lunch, we return to the beach and our machines. We start the four wheelers, and abuela Donna takes off quickly in her canary yellow rice rocket. Drew and I look at each other and smile. Abuela is enjoying herself. Range and I take up the rear. Donna is far ahead now. She flies past Campo Tortuguero, forgetting that we had a scheduled stop (I would’ve done the same). Marco “kicks her up a notch”, eventually catches Donna, and turns her back.
We park the ATV’s below the hatchery, and walk up a few steps to two small buildings. To our right is an open concrete pool filled with circulating sea water. The pool walls are about four feet high. It is circular and about 15-20 feet in diameter. Swimming in the water are about 30 to 40 newly hatched sea turtles. The children ask if they can hold the creatures and are given permission by the caretakers to do so. London loves all creatures great and small. She is really enjoying this. Last year, she “rescued” dozens of baby sea turtles on the beach at Emerald Bay. At that time, she was busy for hours moving the baby turtles from high on the beach, to the sea, before the birds or sun could kill them. London wants to be a veterinarian. I’m guessing that will likely happen, as she is bright and motivated, and all living things are her passion.
While the children continue to view the babies, Drew, Donna, Marcus, and I walk past the pool and peek through the window and door of the adjacent building. Inside the building are a few hundred white coolers that are used to incubate the turtle eggs that are collected each day along the beach. The caretakers have disappeared, so we are unable to ask questions. I’m not sure how many of the coolers actually held eggs. Next to the building we notice several large bones. They are gray whale vertebrae, and they seem “out of place” to me. But they are not. I’m used to seeing them on the remote beaches of the far north, in places like Pt. Hope, Barrow, and Kaktovik. However, the remains are equally at home here, as the whales migrate between Mexico and Alaska, each year. I’m thinking that if I was a whale, I’d rather die on this beach, than in Pt. Hope. We gather the children and walk down to the beach, stopping to read signage that offers a brief description of the hatchery. Marco tells us that the turtle center is funded by Estrella Del Mar and private donations. This is a good use of time and money.
We leave the hatchery and cruise in the 20’s toward our restaurant starting point. Our destination is 30 minutes, and about 10 miles of sandy beach, away. When we arrive at the restaurant, the ATV’s are parked, and it’s time for Marco to make his world famous mackerel ceviche. He disappears for a short time, then returns with a large plate of mashed mackerel, onion, and jalapeno … all drenched in lime juice. He takes a spoonful of the mixture and places it in a small, crisp corn tortilla. Donna follows suit. I’m the third to try. I take a bite, and I’m pleasantly surprised. The fish is fresh, icy cold, and mild in flavor. The onion and jalapeno add just the right “kick”. Fantastico, Marco!
Marco tells us that he usually adds cilantro and a few other ingredients, but this “simple recipe” was wonderful.
Next, we are served two varieties of fresh shrimp. One order is breaded and deep fried; the other is boiled and peeled. The shrimp are large and juicy. I try a couple of each. Yowsa! Very nice! The shrimp are washed down with another cervesa, or two. I am now, quite full, and ready for a siesta. It appears the other adults are also ready for a nap. But, not the children; they are on the move. London and Range want to ride the “banana boat”. Marco draws the short straw, and cheerfully heads to the beach with the children. He enjoys his role as “Mexican Uncle”. London and Range race to the long, yellow, floating, banana boat. They help launch it into the water, and then mount the monster fruit with Uncle Marco. They float “untethered” from their motorized tow skiff for several minutes while the “skipper and his first mate” attempt to launch the heavy fiberglass boat off the beach. While I’m snapping pictures, a tourist couple stops to offer assistance to the crew. Finally, the right wave, reaches underneath the skiff; and with a “heave ho”, the skipper, first mate, and additional crew, push the boat into the water. They hook up with the banana boat bunch, and off they go. The “cruise” takes about 15 minutes. The kids enjoy the ride with Uncle Marco. At their return, when in shallow water, Marco rolls the banana, and dumps the kids into the sea. They are wearing flotation vests and pop up laughing and splashing Marco.
Our day at Stone Island ends with a bumpy, dusty, but curiously relaxing tractor ride through the small village to the ferry. It has been a memorable day, and I am so thankful to my friends Drew and Donna, for inviting me along on this adventure. What a wonderful time we had!
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